A very brief tale of Ranamafana
18.07.2007 - 04.08.2007 33 °C
Bloody long hard slog through the rainforest, thankfully didnt rain but damned hot. Camped in the forest, fed the resident ring tail mongoose cheese (that is one beautiful creature.. chestnut brown with four black rings on its tail), practicing my Malagasy. Didnt see the bloody black and white lemurs which was the purpose of my visit. Heard them once and went hacking off through the jungle but they fell silent and the forest closed around us, refusing entry.
Suprised that the forest was so silent. Maybe as it was so hot and humid, the animals just couldnt be bothered, there would be the occasional twitter of a bird which would end in a note like ... oh fuck it... and it would go back to sleep. At night though a million frogs would wake up, the birds would party, but the lemurs remained elusive.
Even harder slog the next day. We did see some brown lemurs who grunted at us angrily. The primary forest is their sanctuary from the prying tourists in the lower, secondary forest. They wagged their tails like angry cats. it was wonderful to actually see lemurs totally wild and unhabituated to humans.
The route we took going down had just been cut and not finished, we ended up sliding down banks, crossing slippery waterfalls, paddling up streams and the forest continued to sheild the black and white lemurs.
We finally arrived in the village, exhausted and drenched with sweat. My guide was profoundly apologetic that we did not see the black and whites but I told him it was Ok and just turned to the forest and said 'You won'.
I then returned to Tana by stinkobus, and was due to get the bus out to Tamatave the next day to make the connection with the boat I had booked to go to Isle St Marie to see the whales.
But I didnt go to Tamatave, or Isle St Marie. The idea of pissing rain somehow just wasnt appealing anymore so.. I returned to Morondava to see my now good friend Jean le Rasta.